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The neckline of what you are wearing decides how much space a necklace has to work in. Get that relationship right and even a very simple chain looks deliberate; get it wrong and an expensive pendant disappears or fights with the fabric.

Crew and round necks

The fabric already sits high on the chest, so a short chain of 40 to 45 cm that rests above the collar reads cleanly. Alternatively, skip the necklace and let earrings carry the look.

V-necks

Mirror the shape. A pendant that hangs at roughly the depth of the V, or slightly above it, echoes the line rather than interrupting it. This is the neckline where layering works best.

Scoop and boat necks

A wide, open neckline suits a collar or a short choker that follows the curve of the fabric. Long pendants tend to look lost in all that open space.

Collared shirts

With the top button undone, a small pendant sitting inside the open collar looks polished. Buttoned to the top, a fine chain worn over the collar or no necklace at all is the better choice.

High and polo necks

Treat the knit as a background. A longer chain of 55 cm or more, or a bold pendant worn over the fabric, has room to be seen and adds interest to an otherwise plain silhouette.

Strapless and off-the-shoulder

These leave the most skin visible and can carry the boldest piece you own, whether that is a statement collar or a wide choker.